On January 21, 2012 my fellow Master Sommeliers and I were treated to an amazing flight of dry German wines. Sponsored by the VDP (Die Prädikatsweingüter), the German association of high achieving wineries, with the goal of cementing the greatness of dry German riesling. A gathering of 83 Master Sommeliers is not easy to impress but this tasting confirmed our passionate love of German Riesling. As a side benefit we found a new respect for Germa
n pinot noir (spätburgunder).
Rather than wax prolific about the experience I will just share my tasting notes and label shots.
2005 Johannes Eser Rudesheim Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewachs – Honey and baked green apple, lots of stone notes up front, peach, some dried peach, apricot, light mint and green herb, light white pepper note at this temperature. Sleek beginning that broadens across the palate. All the nose comes through it certainly has honey, chamomile and slate, the fruit is baked and fresh. Tastes of sun, very tasty!
2008 Johannes Eser Rudesheim Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau – Bright lime and apricot in the nose with much brighter approach than the 2005, lily with light honey notes and plenty of all three colors of apples, undertone of chamomile and light green herb, tangerine, and orange are quite prevalent, stinging level of acid with a solid wash of lime juice, the citrus gives way to green apple with skin, then chamomile, then orange skin, excellent and age worthy, finish lasts for several minutes
2010 Johannes Eser Rudesheim Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau – Prickly nose of herb and a botrytis type note, rich apricot, moderately ripe pineapple, intensely mineral driven in a dark smoky way, mineral and spice are dominant with a high tone cinnamon note that moves to lime juice, apricot flesh, then pineapple, baked apple, now tangerine zest…slate and mineral drive the finish with the tart and tropical citrus. Just needs time.
2008 Franz Kunstler Riesling Hochheim Kirchenstuck Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau – Subtle ripe peach and apricot with a light honey note, muted a bit by comparison to the previous wines, lots of honeysuckle, very pretty once it opens up, tangerine oil, powerful flavor driven lemon and lime zest, cleansing acid that yields to green apple skin, lightly bitter orange, tons of mineral in the finish with a supporting cast of apricot, flowers and citrus. Really tasty. Beautiful beeswax, petrol in finish as well.
2009 Robert Weil Riesling Kiedrich Grafenberg Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau – Green apple with skin and lime zest that meets an herbal approach with white flowers, light white pepper, dusty mineral note, pink grapefruit oil, gets better with each sniff, extremely high levels of acidity, when the acid fades the lime, lemon and passionfruit, finish is completely driven by passion fruit, long, lean, clean
2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Sharzhofberger Grosses Gewachs, Mosel – Very perfumed and full of honeysuckle first and foremost, after the flowers comes rich dark slate aromas, now it moves to candied lemon and passionfruit, ripe green apple, lightly spiced with white pepper, chamomile mixed in as well, remarkably floral, baked apple and hints of caramel in the mouth with a wash of passion fruit and lime juice in the finish. At length it cycles back through all flavors for more than one minute. So elegant.
2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Josephshofer Grosses Gewachs, Mosel – Subtle honeyed nose, passionfruit and green apple come now, note of caramel apple, lots of dusty minerality, long long finish that cycles through all the components but in a very compact form!
2010 PrinzSalm Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe – Sweet white flower petals drive the nose at first, nectarine, fresh apricot, lime, tangerine skin, pineapple core, stinging level of acid that gives way to wonderful stone fruits and remarkable length, great mint and basil combination, really stylish and balanced.
2007 Schafer-Frolich Riesling Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe – Honey and chamomile meet the nose with peach and apricot, ripe tangerine, smoky slate note, powerful mouth feel, lots of rich mineral and then the lime, tangerine zest, pineapple core and long honey and mineral finish but still a dry finish. Wonderful wine and my favorite of the 18 wines shown.
2010 Gunderlach Riesling Nackenheim Rothenberg Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen – Steely, green apple skin nose, lots of white lilies, gorgeous balance of flowers and fruit, minerals take a backseat, lavender, 
sandalwood, blast of grapefruit, passion fruit and lime zest. Fantastically pretty flavor with deceptive power in the finish. Another finish that is minutes long.
2010 Wagner Stempel Riesling Siefersheimer Heerkretz Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz – Honey and minerals with pineapple, peach , apricot and passion fruit jump out of the glass, great herb note and undertone of lavender, massive blast of lime juice and passion fruit that will take several years to mellow a bit. Finish involves the honey but only after the intense citrus fades a bit, wow this wine is intense! Wait 5 years!
2007 Pfeffingen-Fuhrmann-Eymael Riesling Herrenberg „Mardelskopf“ Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz– Sweet tangerine in nose with honey, mineral and light lavender, steely, dusty, rocky in the approach with pineapple core, very bright, chalky, then lime zest, yellow grapefruit, lots of stones and a lean direct feel, finish goes for more than 2 minutes, apricot fresh off the tree, honey mingles in and out, very dry
2010 Okonomierat Rebholz Riesling Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz– Roses jump from the glass, lots of candied lemon with green apple, apricot, mineral, dark rocks after the rain, basil and pineapple core, palette flows perfectly from the nose with the addition of green tea to the other flavors, finish cycles between all the aromas and lasts for minutes. Wow!
2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Erdener Prälat Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz– Honeysuckle brightly portrayed with candied apple notes, saline, apricot, pineapple core and lime are added to the flowers, not as powerful as the others so far but pretty and elegant. Strong lily and mineral finish.
2008 Meyer-Nakel Pinot Noir Dernau Pfarrwingert Grosses Gewachs, Aher– Pomegranate and cherry in the nose with tart red cherry, there is butter and vanilla as well, bacon and smoked meat, fruit follows nose and the texture really shines. This wine reflects the style and quality of Burgundy but some of the generosity of the new world. The oak is very well integrated and the finish of cured meat and smoked bacon is awesome. Very cool wine.
2007 Rudolf Furst Pinot Noir Burgstadt Centgrafenberg”R” Grosses Gewachs, Franken– Black cherry and pomegranate cordial in the nose, bacon in the background, raspberry juice and vanilla come next with some baking spice as well. Very inviting nose. Powerful acidity with a little brettanomyces showing up here. Lots of bacon that gives way to rich red fruits. Certainly lots of cherry and pomegranate.
2007 Friedrich Becker Pinot Noir Kammerberg Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz – Sweet pomegranate syrup in the nose with pure vanilla and baking spice, some cranberry, raspberry and strawberry added in; honestly just beautiful! Simply tastes like great Chambolle Musigny…powerful, red fruit forward and amazing texture.
2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Josephshofer Spatlese, Mosel – Sweet honeyed grapefruit and lemon, candied lime next, screaming minerality and a unique yeast note, honeysuckle is prominent, pleasantly sweet with passion fruit coulis and apple sauce, intense flowers and massive fruit.
